Luxury fashion - Can High Fashion Be Inclusive And Diverse?

Luxury fashion has long faced accusations of exclusivity and racism. Diversity in luxury fashion and haute couture has often been tokenistic, with little effort made to genuinely include minorities.

The call to break down barriers within the fashion industry has been ringing for years, but never before has it been in the spotlight as it is now.

Diversity and inclusivity are essential, and the industry is finally addressing issues such as cultural insensitivity, lack of minority representation, and the exclusion of plus-sized individuals.

For far too long, the fashion industry has been a victim of standardisation. Many luxury brands have limited their production to a few standard sizes, making them inaccessible to curvier or larger shoppers.

The runway shows, too, have perpetuated hegemonic beauty standards, glorifying white skin and slim bodies as the epitome of desirability.

Most fashion houses filled their diversity quotas by hiring only a minimal number of black and minority models, creating the illusion of inclusivity.

Luxury giants like Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Givenchy, and Prada have been called out for tokenism and a general lack of minority representation on their runways and in their campaigns.

Supermodel Naomi Campbell has spoken out numerous times about the ingrained racism within the industry. She has shared her experiences as the only black model cast in runway shows and advertisements, as well as the lack of technical expertise among makeup artists and hairstylists when working with darker skin tones and textured hair.

Model Joan Smalls, who has graced countless magazine covers and worked with luxury brands such as Gucci, Tom Ford, Burberry, and Fendi, has discussed being the token black model in nearly every casting.

These types of experiences are far from rare in the fashion world. Amid the BLM movement and rising social unrest, these voices have become louder, and performative activism can no longer shield luxury powerhouses from accountability.

The industry has begun taking steps to steer itself in the right direction, with initiatives to involve more black and people of color (POC) in the roles of editors, creators, photographers, and designers. According to The Fashion Spot, only 17% of models walking the runway during the Spring/Summer Fashion Week in 2015 were black.

By 2019, that number had increased to 34.5%, and by 2020, it reached 47%. Vogue's editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, issued an apology to employees for not promoting black talent enough, vowing to take greater responsibility for promoting diversity in the workplace. In July 2019, Chanel appointed Fiona Pargeter as the global head of diversity and inclusion, while Prada formed a diversity council to foster an inclusive climate.

In June 2020, Samira Nasr became the first editor-in-chief of colour in the 153-year history of US Harper’s Bazaar. After facing blackface controversies, Gucci launched a diversity and sensitivity initiative to improve its practices.

These progressive steps are crucial in addressing inequality and creating a more equitable industry for all.

However, missteps have occurred along the way. Brands like Gucci, Dior, and Comme des Garçons have faced accusations of cultural appropriation.

While social media users have quickly called them out, such instances of ignorance are unacceptable in today’s globalised market, where knowledge is easily accessible.

The industry must commit further to building teams with diverse backgrounds to better understand cultural nuances and avoid such mistakes in the future.

When it comes to size inclusivity, luxury fashion has been slower to adapt to market demands. In the 1980s, only a handful of luxury labels, such as Givenchy and Valentino, began producing plus-size collections.

Today, the demand for plus-size clothing has skyrocketed, with the average clothing size in the US and Europe being 14 to 16. While high street brands have adjusted to the changing demographics, the luxury fashion world has been reluctant to embrace inclusivity.

It’s rare to see a plus-size model walking the runway for high-end designers. However, the rise of social media has given a platform to plus-size models who might have otherwise been sidelined.

Models like Tess Holliday, Ashley Graham, Tara Lynn, and Candice Huffine are challenging the negative perceptions of plus-size people and clothing. Ashley Graham made history as the first plus-size model to appear on the cover of Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue in 2016, a groundbreaking achievement.

The inclusivity movement is not just about size but also encompasses gender, race, disability, and age. Millennials and Gen Z are more gender-fluid and open-minded than previous generations. For this new wave of consumers, brand loyalty means little.

They are more likely to align themselves with brands that reflect their values and ethics. The push for diversity and inclusivity is driven by consumers who are tired of not seeing themselves represented on the global stage. These new-age buyers are dynamic, gender-fluid, and assertive in their expectations.

Therefore, luxury fashion brands cannot afford to ignore these demands if they hope to tap into this influential market.

The success of Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty and clothing line stands as a testament to how diversity and inclusion can be done right. It serves as a lesson for the industry. Luxury brands must aim for greater equality and elevate the voices of minorities.

Creative decisions, such as the appointment of Virgil Abloh as Artistic Director of Menswear at Louis Vuitton and Edward Enninful as Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue, have had a profound impact, allowing minority voices to not only be heard but to shape the future of these iconic institutions.

Diversity and inclusion are not just trends – they are vital for the future of luxury fashion.

Conclusion:

The luxury fashion industry has made significant strides in embracing diversity and inclusion, but there is still a long way to go. True inclusivity goes beyond tokenism and requires a deep commitment to understanding and addressing cultural, racial, gender, and size-related issues.

With growing consumer demands for brands to reflect a more inclusive and diverse world, luxury fashion must continue to evolve. As seen with the success of inclusive brands and the rise of minority voices, the future of fashion lies in diversity, equality, and representation.

Only by embracing these values can the industry ensure its relevance and success in a changing world.